SURPRISE MOTHERFUCKERS THERES NO JOKE OR CLEVER COMPLAINT AT THE END OF THIS POST BECAUSE FUCK EVERYTHING. I BET YOU THOUGHT YOU WOULD SEE SOME STUPID FACE OR PAINFUL MEMORY FROM SHERLOCK HUH?? NOPE JUST THIS STUPIDLY LONG POST. HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA ITS THE ULTIMATE FUCK YOU HAHAHAHAHAHA I HAVENT SLEPT IN 3 DAYS.
It’s been a while since we’ve talked from our last lesson. You can catch the Introduction here, I haven’t forgotten about giving you all advice about understanding the fundamentals to beauty. In my previous post I discussed skin types, skin care, and color theory. Remember to hold on to color theory and if you need a refresh re-read the Introduction.
This lesson will be Part 1 of 2 about the Face. I’ll be discussing Facial shapes, contouring/highlighting, and undertone/shade.
They’re a guide to understand what you can do with not only your hair but your make-up, they let you know where to put your highlights/conturing as well as your color and sometimes your eyeshadow. These are the facial shapes that are most common and many times people are a combination of both!
Rectangle: Your face is similar to Jada Pinkett Smith, elongated with a strong angular jawline that is the same width as your forehead.
Oblong: You have a facial shape similar to Kelly Rowland, elongated almost oval with an angular jawline that rounds out near the chin area. The angles are mostly coming from the cheeks of your face.
Oval: Your face is the holy grail and similar to Beyonce. It’s exactly like an oval shape and can wear various styles and not worry to much about contouring.
Round: Similar to Janet Jackson, your face is round all the way through towards the jawline, your forehead and chin area are the same widths with your cheeks being somewhat roundish. Your head also is small and compact.
Square: Similar to Ciara, your bottom jaw is larger than your forehead and angular from your cheeks towards you chin. Not elongated like a rectangle, this face shape tends to have what’s considered “high cheek bones”
Triangular/pear: Similar to Fantasia Barrino, both words are for the same shape, your forehead is much smaller than your jaw and cheek area. If you were to take a picture you could indeed draw a triangle on it.
Diamond: If your face is small on the forehead area and in your jawline like Kerry Washington, chances are you’re a diamond shape. This shape has a very delicate look and sometimes people confuse it for the triangle because of it’s pointedness.
Heart/inverted triangle: Interchangeable terms, your forehead is larger than your jaw and cheek area. Tyra banks is famous for this face and is definitely the opposite of the Triangle/pear head shape.
Highlighting and contouring
These two go hand and hand with facial shapes. We highlight and contour to ether sculpt certain parts we want to prioritize or to try and fake our way to an oval face shape. Bronzing falls into this category and depending on the nature of the bronzer is may be used for ether or both. You will see people saying they use bronze as a contour or as a highlighter.
Highlighting is using natural light and artificial light to your advantage, this techniques helps define the natural points on your face that should and sometimes glimmer. It helps distract the eye from under wanted parts on your face and creates a focal points or multiple focal points. Highlighting is used by most make-up artist and everyday people.
There are several places to use highlighting at which includes:
Underneath the arch in your eyebrow
On the tip or bridge of your nose
On your cheeks above where you place your blush
On your chin right underneath your lips
On the middle part of your eye and also your inner eyelid
Right underneath your nose, the philtrum or cupid’s bow.
Underneath your eyes in a triangle or V shape
These places grasp the light the most and help create a light airy feeling to your face.
Contouring helps sculpt your face. It gives delusions be using the darkest or deepest parts of your face and bringing forward the parts that are highlighted. An example and most popular is contouring your cheeks right underneath your blush. These brings fourth you cheek bones and creates a dynamic play on light and dark. Other places where contouring is common is:
Upper forehead area
Outside of the eyebrow
In the crease area of your eye
The edge of your eyebrow near your nose
The inner bridge of your nose Underneath your chin
These areas are classic places for placement of contouring.
*If you have a round face and want to look more elongated, contour along your cheek area and underneath your chin.
*If you have a rectangular or square face and want a softer look use highlighting around your chin area and upper cheeks. Combine that with a soft color for contouring such as a soft plummy brown and a nice peachy highlight. These colors create depth and warmth and that’s what you want if you want a softer look.
Bronzers can be used for highlighting and contouring depending on the nature of the Bronzer. bronzers tend to have a softer color pay off and not as harsh as you as something like contouring powder which is specifically to place dark pigmentation on your face. Bronzer’s tend to stay in the range of being 1 to 2 shades darker than your skin-tone and complimenting it with a subtleness vs contouring powders. Bronzers can also be used for highlighting and can double as both depending on how they’re made. A big chunk of bronzers have shimmer in them warm hues vs cool ones, which cool colors recede from the face and as said before bronzers double as highlighters and contours.
There are different products for highlighting the most common among is cream, powder, and Bronzers. Some examples:
*MAC Mineralized Skin Finish in Gold Deposit
*Milani illuminating face powder Amber Nectar
*The body Shop Shimmer waves 01
*Covergirl Queen Collection bronzer Q120, Q100,Q110
*ELF Shimmering facial whip
Undertones and Shades
By far one of the biggest things people struggle with is undertone. There are 3 categories with undertone, warm, neutral and cool. People can be ebony color and be warm. As people whom are ivory can be cool. Your shade is different from your undertone, shade is composed of Tonal value, remember what I said about light and dark in the intro section? Shade is from light to dark, you usually have 3 categories also Light, Medium, Dark, and always the in-betweens.
Shade : Light, Medium, Dark = From light to dark
Undertone: Warm, Neutral, Cool = How much blue or yellow you have in your skin concerning colors.
A good example of this would be the chart I posted up top with different Black women. Undertones are tricky and can also vary from season to season. Many people have two different foundations, one for the summer and one for the winter because your shade can change which can shift how your undertone works underneath your skin. In the winter I’am more yellow/golden and in the summer I become orange/red.
When trying to match up your undertone, it’s best to figure out your shade range first which can be challenging for many BPOC (Black People of color). After finding your shade range it’s best to try a few tricks to find your undertone on the scale of warm, neutral, cool.
+ Look at your skin in natural light, which color shines through the most? Don’t go by the ones in your face go by the ones in your neck area and open chest. This is wear you’re going to be matching your skin and undertone too.
+ Take a look at your arm and notice the veins, are they blue/purple? Most likely you’re cool toned. Are they green? You’re most likely warm.
+Use a pair of silver and gold earrings. Which one flatters you more? If silver does you’re cool toned, if gold does you’re warm. If both look nice you’re neutral.
+ Do you look wonderful in white t-shirts? you’re most likely cool toned. If you look a little bleb then more than likely you’re warm. If it makes no difference you’re neutral.
+When wearing yellows or oranges, do they compliment you? You’re warm. If not, I would suggest switching to cooler colors because you’re probably cool undertone!
+ If you burn easily most likely you’re cool toned. If you tan easily, you’re probably warm.
Although these methods are common it’s always best to go to a makeup counter before you buy a foundation in a drugstore. Many times in upper scale make up places like Sephora or ULTA you’ll be able to swatch and test. Also having someone with experience as a makeup artist working in the store helping you is important. Getting matched and testing two to three different foundations will help you determine what’s best for you.
*note not all BPOC are warm and if anyone tells you that tell them to shut up.
Makeup Artist and fashion designer: Kathy Truonginstagram: ktruongdotcom
Model: Abigal Hope Mitchell
Hair Stylist: Aida Hernandez
Bottom left is the design of the makeup I created on the computer on my models photo.
The other 3 images are of the actual makeup I created at yesterday’s tuition shoot.
Unlike other makeup artist’s, I prefer to create these type of makeup designs as opposed to using face charts. I find this way is more realistic & I know what the design will look like on the model beforehand.